Patons and Baldwins archive part two - 1930's jumpers and cardigans

Are you ready for some more gorgeous 1930's knitwear? After showing half the jumper and cardigan patterns in part one, here are the rest of them!

Starting off with a couple of sporting outfits:

Apart from the knitwear I am liking the fact that our dapper gent is puffing away on his pipe as he contemplates his round of golf. Miss Asymmetric Block Stripe jumper appears to be keeping score rather than playing even though more women began to play sports such as golf in this period.

Even though I can not ice skate at all I would rather like to have this outfit in my wardrobe. I love the fact that the stripes repeat on every item and that you would be fully kitted out with a hat, scarf, gloves, jumper and socks!

Given the countryside background and the stick I would say that this is an outfit designed for a good walk. It consists of a jacket like cardigan with a low, single fastening and an A line type skirt. Nicely done in a country tweed!

Next is a skirt and top:

The jumper has a neck tie fastening and a raised stitch stripe detail and the skirt gives the appearance of pleats which may be achieved by the stitch pattern used.

Now for a few in colour:

This one is very interesting with it's two colour neck and cuffs and the two colour triangle pattern on the front which is then repeated on the sleeves. The main body appears to be knitted in a tweedy type yarn. Look at her amazing hair, white blonde with perfect waves!

I like the yellow and blue colour work on this jerkin which gives the appearance of lapels. The yarn used in the main body again appears to be a tweed type. I can't tell if the belt is integral to the pattern or is there for styling purposes.

I like the repeating bands of colour on this one too and the low waist fastening for the cardigan. These three patterns were obviously part of a set, presumably for the tweed type wool. I have never seen any like this in all the P&B patterns that I have come across before. It is worth noting that it is possible to just make out some asymmetric button detailing on the front of the skirt.

The rest of the patterns are jumpers and cardigans:

The background of this one says cruise liner to me with its curved lines and fancy rug. Very elegant!

I like this fancy neckline on what is otherwise quite a plain and loose fitting jumper. I think the cowl neck ends in a flat bow on the shoulder and this is possibly knitted in some sort of lace stitch.

I find this one interesting but I am not sure that I want to wear it. I like the shape and fit of the jumper itself, especially the deep band of ribbing at the bottom. But what is that in the centre? A one eyed monster sticking it's tongue out? A buttoned in handy tissue/napkin? I'm really not at all sure.

I do like this. I like the use of the darker colour to add some depth and interest to that large pointed collar. The lace type stitch is very pretty too.

Is this the tweed wool again? I love the striped yoke which makes it look as though she is wearing graduated strings of pearls. I also like the slight puff to the sleeves where they are gathered around the arm. I would definitely add this to my wardrobe!

This is another that I am not quite sure about. I like the simplicity of the dark bottom half forming a triangle in the centre of the paler top half. I like the idea of the scarf with the alternating light and dark bands but I think I would want to be able to tie it. Like this I think I would just dangle it in my soup, cuppa, ketchup etc.

I like this one a lot. I think the zig zag stitch pattern is lovely and very effective. The wide ended scarf looks like it is knitted using the main yarn and then angora (those rabbits again) to form the stripes. It looks to have a woggle/band to hold it in place which is also angora. I think the wide ends may be fastened on with buttons at the sides too. Lots going on but I think that it works.

These two patterns are included to give a sense of what it was like to flick through through the pattern folders in the archive, finding these amazing garments at every turn of the page. The one on the right uses angora to create stripes too and the one on the left has very interestingly shaped sleeves.

Did you have a favourite? Or do you want nearly all of them like I do?!

You may be interested to know that a part three, which does not feature jumpers or cardigans but features other goodies, is on the way!

Patons and Baldwins archive part one - 1930's jumpers and cardigans

I have written about my enjoyable trip to the Knitting and Crochet Guild archive here and here, focusing on the garments that we were shown. As well as garments the archive holds books, needles, magazines, yarn charts, gadgets and many, many patterns. I was very excited to get the chance to look at some of the patterns that were part of the Patons and Baldwins archive which the Guild now holds.

There are folders full of amazing knitting patterns like this fabulous butterfly outfit. I think this may be a swimming costume with a skirt and long line cardigan to match. I was almost drooling at some of the patterns and I hope that I will find them out in the wild one day. Imagine a wardrobe full of these beauties!

A child's geometric jumper.

If you are not a knitter there is no need to stop reading right here as knitting patterns are also brilliant source material for fashion history. Obviously, people wanted to knit fashionable garments so knitting patterns followed the variations in fashions. So in these knitting patterns you can see many 1930's traits: big sleeves, bows, interesting necklines, geometry, chevrons, colour blocking, yokes.

Knitting patterns are also a good way to see how clothing was styled,  to see what normal people rather than film stars wore and to see glimpses of skirts, accessories etc. They are also a good source of hairstyle inspiration!

A pretty button shoulder feather and fan jerkin. Notice the chevron yoke on the skirt.

Patons and Baldwins was formed in 1920 by the merger of two wool companies, John Paton, Son and Company from Alloa, Scotland and J&J Baldwin and Partners from Halifax, West Yorkshire. They focused on producing wool for home knitters and knitting pattern support to go with it.

Cute lace short sleeved jumper with a integral neck tie.

By the 1930's the company had factories and buildings across Scotland and the North of England and also in Canada and New Zealand!

A deep V neck cardigan with a lace stitch and lovely square buttons.

Look at this glamorous evening dress bedecked with bows! The pattern is for an angora evening jacket and a waistcoat.

I have read somewhere that P&B owned an angora rabbit farm which would explain why they produced many angora patterns between the 1930's and 1950's.

There is a lot going on in this jumper. Epaulettes, a chevron yoke and either beads or some kind of metallic thread embellishment.

There is nothing new about colour blocking! This has a lovely ribbed body that continues up the front of the jumper with a striped yoke, a belt and colour block sleeves.

Lovely chevron striped jumper with a high tied neck.

I do like an all over cable cardigan and this one has a lovely pointy collar.

After the Second World War P&B decided to build a new, modern and efficient factory in Darlington. It even had it's own railway siding for speedy transport. The factory was complete by 1951 and was the largest wool factory in the world! It became a tourist attraction, I would have loved to have looked around. Find out more here and here and here.

I like this with the large stripes on the sleeves and the asymmetric front.

Gorgeous voluminous sleeved jumper with an integral bow at the neckline.

This one also has amazing sleeves and a beautiful stitch pattern. The bell type flowers remind me of the pattern on this 1950's cardigan that I knitted.

Patons and Baldwins merged with Coats in 1961. Patons wool is still available to buy.

Such a smart long line cardigan, belted at the waist. It has a lovely stitch pattern.

I want nearly all of these marvellous knits! The 1930's is not the period that I am first drawn to fashion wise, though it is growing on me now that I look into the fashions more and more. I think I was maybe put off by all the slinky, bias cut evening gowns which I would look a total horror in but when looking at everyday clothes I see fashions that I would like to try.

Luckily, this is not the end of the 1930's knitted gorgeousness as part two is on it's way!

Handmade 1930's sportswear for women

I was looking through some of my 1930's 'The Needlewoman' magazines to do some research for my second birthday blog post and my eye kept getting caught by images of sportswear. I kept seeing lovely hand knitted jumpers and then seeing the props in the photos were tennis racquets and golf clubs and could see a theme emerging and feel another post coming on. So here is a little tour of 1930's women's sportswear.

Tennis seemed to be the most popular sport if judged by how many times tennis outfit were featured.

'Tennis days are here again'

From the June 1934 issue. Here is the lovely, evocative description from the magazine:

'Now that the long, light evenings are back again, everybody is on the tennis courts getting ready for the summer tournaments, and smart "woolies" are by no means the least important item of equipment. The jumper shown above has two essentially practical features - the short, capelet sleeves, which leave the arms gloriously free to serve and smash and volley, and the deep, tight fitting basque which prevents the jumper from "riding up" with every movement. The jumper is knitted in a pretty fancy stitch in white, with narrow ribbed edgings of scarlet'.

It makes me wish that I could play tennis just so that I could wear it.

The next few pictures are from the same issue. This coat is stunning.

'Tennis woolies are so smart'

'To be fashionable you must knit odd sleeves and only half belts and collars to your smartest coats this year! The coat is correct for tennis or informal wear at the seaside on summer evenings, while, completed with a little red beret to match, it would look smart for walking. The neck and coat fasten with large triangular buttons, allowing the white tennis frock to show above and bellow the belt fastening'.

I love the idea of adding a red beret to make it a walking set. It puts my walking clothes firmly to shame!

A dress motif for a tennis player

'This motif has been sketched on the cape collar of a tennis frock in white or cream silk. The motif could be worked on any tennis frock, blouse or jumper and would look particularly smart on a beret or scarf'.

'A coat of arms for the tennis player!'

' "Five tennis racquets rampant over afield of tennis net" is how this jolly little "Coat of Arms" might be described in heraldic language - with apologies to the College of Heraldry! Every sportswoman likes to have a touch of embroidery on her sports clothes and this little motif, amusingly arranged in the form of a "Coat of Arms" will give a smart, exclusive air to tennis blazers and frocks'.

'The "Coat of Arms" is shown here on a
regulation sports blazer'.

'Made in white or cream flannel, with the embroidered motif and gilt or steel buttons, such a smart, businesslike blazer would not disgrace the centre court at Wimbledon! This same motif could well be adopted by a tennis club or team as its own particular badge, by working it in club or school colours and adding the necessary initials'.

The magazine suggests the following colours - Greys, Apple Green, Light Rose, Light Madder Pink, Light Electric Blue, Ochre Yellow, Light Periwinkle Blue. I always enjoy it when magazines with black and white illustrations do this as it gives a clearer sense of what the designer was imagining. I also love to read the names of the colours.

The next two jumpers are from the July 1934 issue.

'A waistcoat Pull-over for sport or town wear'.

'A smart Pull-over in white knitted in an attractive pattern of broken diagonal lines. The front opens like a waist-coat down to the ribbed basque, and it is fastened with scarlet wooden buttons. The Pull-over is planned for the slightly-larger-than-average figure and allows ample room for movement without becoming disarranged'.

You might be interested to know that the larger than average size referred to is a 36" bust! I really like the stitch pattern and the buttons and red and white for tennis must have been a trend that year!

'A useful jumper for tennis and holiday wear'.

'Here is something novel and attractive which will appeal to the busy woman - a jumper which can be knitted over a weekend! Thick, 6-ply wool, big needles and a very simple design make this possible. It is a most attractive model, too, and will look smart for tennis or holiday wear since it is in the fashionable cable stitch. This is cable stitch with a difference, though, since only one stitch comes between each cable twist and this is dropped when the top of the work is reached, to give the pretty openwork ladder effect which makes the jumper look so "summery" and unusual. A little tab of scarlet corded ribbon gives a chic finish.

I think this is lovely, the construction sounds very interesting.

Now to March 1939.

A LUX advert

The text says: 'If you have been to Wimbledon, you've seen little coats like this one worn by many of the tennis stars. They play in them when it's cold. Or they throw them round their shoulders as protection after the game. This particular model is the nicest of its kind, with clever groups of cabling, a neat, high neck and a flatter-your-figure fit. Given good care, this coatee should last for several seasons without showing its age. Good care, of course, means LUX. Pure, gentle, best for wool LUX.'

LUX advert close up

Readers of the magazine were able to obtain free instructions for knitting this garment by sending the top of a 6d Lux packet to Lever Brothers Ltd. I wonder who designed the knitwear for them?

Next we are looking golf clothing which seems to be the second most popular after tennis. These next images are from the September 1934 issue.

'For golf or smart country wear'

This jumper is knitted in a brownish red wool. I think it is so smart and I like the way the ribbed yoke extends part way down the sleeves.

'On the golf course, or, in fact, for any sports wear, you will find this the most practical and comfortable garment - there is nothing to get out of place or disarranged. Worn either as a jumper or a cardigan it fits snugly to the figure and may be buttoned right up to the neck or turned back in small revers, if the last two or three buttons are left undone. Knitted in a lighter shade, it would be perfect for Autumn and Winter tennis. The shoulder yoke at the back and front is worked in a pretty twisted rib and the little patch pockets (such a boon to golfers for tees and tennis players for that elusive hankie!) add a smart and businesslike touch.'

'On the banks and braes o' bonnie Scotland'

Aren't the colours in this image just glorious? It is interesting that in the following description it describes the neck line as a new style. I rather fancy this outfit, perhaps without the golf club!

'Long days on the Scottish moors - shooting, fishing, playing golf - and here is just the jumper you will need. It is designed for comfort, with the new loose fitting circular neck which is fastened at the back with three buttons. The stocking stitch and ribbing in which it is knitted are light and yet close enough to keep out the first chill of autumn, while the serviceable pockets add a smart touch to this essentially sporting model'.

Moving on to January 1936.

'A "Lighning" fastened woollen jumper gives
warmth for winter'

This is knitted in rust coloured wool.

'Whether it is for vigorous golf, for walk or for "spectator sporting" a girl would be hard put to find a more trimly attractive jumper than this. The knitting is done in 3-ply knitting wool, fastened with an 18 inch long Lightning fastener which gives a smooth, neat finish, and ensures protection against the cold. Note the youthful little turn down collar and the very attractive stitch used in the knitting'.

In the September 1937 issue there is this jumper:

'A "tweedy" knitted golf sweater'

'This extremely good sports jersey is knitted in a new wool that gives the effect of tweed. Plain wool in rust to match the flecks in the tweed wool is used for the collar and pocket top. The collar is cleverly designed to form both vestee and roll collar, and gives a very becoming neck line'.

Having covered tennis and golf we will take a look at a couple of other sports. Firstly, swimming in July 1938:

'Knit this for your August holiday outfit'

'Bathing suit with detachable skirt'

Isn't this just fabulous? I love all the little details. This one is knitted in brown with yellow accents.

'This neat model features everything that could be desired in a bathing suit - well shaped, beautifully fitting, and equipped with a detachable skirt'.

In December 1937 we get an ice skating outfit which is made using crochet.

LUX advert

'It's the newest style to wear on the ice - this clever adaptation of the popular bolero. Note the loose back which swings out gracefully in motion and the bands of gay colour at the edge. Made with well fitted wide shoulders, and neat small collar, you can wear the bolero loose over your skating frock or, snugly fastened, with a skirt alone. Cunning little Juliet cap to match'.

I like the fact that you are given styling advice. Again, this pattern was available if a Lux box top was sent off.

From July 1938:

In colour on the cover

'For your holidays'

This is such a cute versatile jumper and I like the colourway.

'For tramping, sailing, tennis and more active pursuits'.

From September 1938:

In colour on the cover

'yellow boucle jumper'

'Choose yellow boucle for this youthfully simple jumper - splendid for sports and country wear'. This is so pretty and smart, really well shaped ribbed body and an interestingly patterned yoke.

So, lots to choose from for our sporting activities. Any catch your eye?